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Friday, September 3, 2010
New swell
Woke up late today, swell has been on the rise for a day or two, my ear has been bugging me since the past swell, so wasn't sure if I was interested in going today, when swell gets to a certain size here our beachbreaks shut down, luckily there are some local options... But with the late start my initial option was out.. So went to option number two, on the way there I noticed SUP'rs surfing a waist high wave in the bay. This means the swell was squeezing itself thru little cuts of land and fanning back out on the bay's shoals, into rideable surf... After seeing this ...Thought the shadowed protected spot was gonna be close-out and sloppy , but it wasn't that bad, the shadow took it down a few feet and the wind tore at it less ... Pretty fun actually
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